It’s been a brutal year, but one rich with hope and perseverance. Despite the continued devastation of the pandemic, the D.C. dining scene has begun staging a determined comeback. Not a return to whatever normal used to be — rather, a rebirth. Now is a time where old norms can be thrown out, allowing new ideas to blossom. I’ve been so inspired watching chefs take the lead on social justice causes and restaurateurs opening new ventures in this utterly unpredictable environment. At all levels of the industry, there is a wealth of grit, tenacity and creativity as people continually pivot and adapt. Thank you to everyone who is working hard to keep us fed and elevate our spirits through their hospitality. It isn’t easy, but it is appreciated — and it won’t ever be forgotten.

A new year brings a new crop of chefs that Food & Wine has highlighted as the United States’s best. They’re creating pop-ups, changing standards for restaurant worker benefits, upping the game for food, and beyond all providing the hospitality that nourishes our nation.

A lifelong student of Korean food, this Best New Chef wants to educate and inform diners about the cuisine, with a boundary-pushing menu that looks both to the past and to the future for inspiration.

When Angel Barreto was first setting up the accounts with suppliers for Anju, the restaurant he helms in Washington, D.C., a salesperson didn't believe that he was serious when he ordered 150 pounds of salted shrimp. Even though the store had the ingredient in stock, the salesperson said he didn't think that Barreto actually "needed it." It's not the first time (nor will it be the last) that someone was surprised that Barreto, who is half Puerto Rican and half Black, with a grin that stretches ear to ear, runs one of D.C.'s most popular Korean restaurants. "There's very few [chefs] who look like me that cook Asian food, especially Korean food," he says, with more empathy than frustration in his voice.

Korean flavors were a part of Barreto's childhood. Both of his parents lived in Korea while serving in the military; his mother, a formidable cook, fell in love with the country and would try her hand at re-creating Korean dishes at home. "She loved the flavors, the dynamism of the people," he explains. "She loved everything." As a young cook, Barreto also found himself drawn to the cuisine, often hanging out in Korean barbecue spots until 3 or 4 a.m. "I love the freshness, the crunchiness, the funkiness of it," he explains. Barreto actively bristles at the stereotypes and stigmas that are placed upon people who are of certain cultural backgrounds and at the idea that it's strange for him to be cooking Korean food. "Your diaspora does not dictate what you can do in life."

Having dinner at Anju feels more like attending a dinner party at your friend’s stylish home than sitting down in a gourmet restaurant. There’s not a table cloth in sight and the exposed brick walls throughout the restaurant look like they’re straight from a brownstone townhouse.

Anju’s wooden ceiling detailing, floors, tables and chairs are varying shades of brown, bringing a dark and intimate color scheme to the space. And the minimal decor consists of house plants and small framed paintings which pepper the space’s walls.

But as dishes arrive at your table, carefully presented in shining metal bowls, you’ll be immersed in an upscale dining experience that excites your taste buds.

The 2021 Best New Chef's view of the nation’s capital includes rum, brunch, and Jersey-style pizza.